Cebu
It was a May afternoon that I flew into Mactan airport of Cebu city and was joined by my host and travelling companion for this trip. We moved into an Airbnb apartment, offered by a couple. Largely we did not see the couple but everything was comfortable and the unit itself was located in an apartment complex off Echavez Street. For those not familiar with the layout of Cebu city, this area is about a ten minutes jeepney ride (or a twenty minutes walk) to downtown Cebu
Downtown Cebu is home to several Cebu landmarks: Fort San Pedro, Metropolitan Church, Basilica Santo Nino, Plaza Indepenzia and Magellan’s Cross, in addition to the ferry terminal. We opted to have a lunch consisting of rice, a leafy vegetable and chicken curry, at a roadside eatery, before proceeding to the ferry terminal to purchase tickets for our onwards ride. The queue was rather long, but our day of travel coincided with the general elections of 2016 (Halalan in Tagalog), so we could easily get tickets on a ferry, that would otherwise would have been sold out.
Downtown Cebu is home to several Cebu landmarks: Fort San Pedro, Metropolitan Church, Basilica Santo Nino, Plaza Indepenzia and Magellan’s Cross, in addition to the ferry terminal. We opted to have a lunch consisting of rice, a leafy vegetable and chicken curry, at a roadside eatery, before proceeding to the ferry terminal to purchase tickets for our onwards ride. The queue was rather long, but our day of travel coincided with the general elections of 2016 (Halalan in Tagalog), so we could easily get tickets on a ferry, that would otherwise would have been sold out.
Fort San Pedro and Plaza Independencia
With the tickets out of the way, we strolled to the Fort San Pedro. For a ticket price of P30 per person, we gained entry into this three cornered fort. The fort itself is not extensive, but it played a significant part in the history of Cebu. The Fort of San Pedro was built by the Spanish under Miguel Lopez de Legazpi and is located in the area just opposite to the Plaza Independencia. It is also walking distance from the Pier 1 and a rather large building housing the Mariner’s Court. The original triangular fort was made of wood, right after the arrival of Legazpi. Two sides face the sea and the third side faces the Plaza. It was subsequently converted to a stone fort and remaned a Spanish stronghold until the Philippine Revolution at the end of the 19th century, when it was briefly taken by Filipino rebels. At the end of the Spanish era, the fort passed into American hands and became a part of the American barracks. After Philippine independence, there was talk of it being demolished to make way for a City Hall, but luckily, it did not materialize.
We were thoroughly impressed by the galleries on the lower and upper levels which house some excellent art work from several important milestones of Philippine history, such as the battle between local hero Lapu Lapu and the Spanish forces. We went to the terrace to have a leisurely stroll around. The sun was getting low on the horizon by now and we enjoyed the views from all around. On this occasion, the venue had been hired for presumably, a wedding reception. As we were departing this fine monument, we saw cars of guests and it was a pretty sight to see the flower girls alight, in their matching outfits.
We were thoroughly impressed by the galleries on the lower and upper levels which house some excellent art work from several important milestones of Philippine history, such as the battle between local hero Lapu Lapu and the Spanish forces. We went to the terrace to have a leisurely stroll around. The sun was getting low on the horizon by now and we enjoyed the views from all around. On this occasion, the venue had been hired for presumably, a wedding reception. As we were departing this fine monument, we saw cars of guests and it was a pretty sight to see the flower girls alight, in their matching outfits.
We made our way through the Plaza Indepenzia. There was a good mix of people jogging around the lawns and others sitting in benches. A security guard sat at his desk in one of the bandstands and kept an eye on the proceedings all around. The plaza is a popular hangout for many living or working around the area. It is filled with much welcome vegetation. It was not always called the Plaza Indepenzia. It was known as Plaza Libertad, referring to the American role in the liberation from the Spanish rule. Finally became known as Plaza Independencia. As the sun continued to set, a refreshing breeze sprung up. At its exit, we grabbed some quick shots of jeepneys plying around.
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Cebu Metropolitan Cathedral & Santo Niño Basilica
The lights started to come on as we made our way to our next stop, on foot. The Cebu Metropolitan Cathedral, also known as The Metropolitan Cathedral of St. Vitales, is the ecclesiastical seat of the Metropolitan Archdiocese of Cebu. Cebu was established as a diocese in 1595. It was then elevated to a primal church in Cebu, and it is one of the first churches in the Philippines, along with the Basilica del Santo Niño. Construction of the cathedral stretched over many years. The architecture of the church is typical of Spanish colonial churches in the country, with practicalities factored in, such as thick walls to withstand typhoons. The facade features several floral motifs, an IHS inscription and a pair of griffins. The cathedral took much damage during World War II and had to be rebuilt in the 1950s. A mausoleum was added which acts as the final resting place for the remains of Cebu's clergy.
An evening mass was in progress at this time, so we decided to walk around outside. Devotees could be seen outside, absorbed in their prayers and some visitors simply enjoyed a quiet time by themselves on the benches right outside the main door. After having clicked off some images, we exited the Metropolitan Church and proceeded to the Basilica Menore del Santo Niño.
An evening mass was in progress at this time, so we decided to walk around outside. Devotees could be seen outside, absorbed in their prayers and some visitors simply enjoyed a quiet time by themselves on the benches right outside the main door. After having clicked off some images, we exited the Metropolitan Church and proceeded to the Basilica Menore del Santo Niño.
The Minor Basilica of the Holy Child, commonly known as the Santo Niño Basilica, is a minor basilica in Cebu and was founded in the 1565. It is the oldest Roman Catholic church established in the country and is reputed to be on the spot where the image of the Santo Niño de Cebu (a statue depicting the Child Jesus, given by Ferdinand Magellan to the wife of Rajah Humabon as a gift) was found in 1565 by Spanish soldiers led by Miguel Lopez de Legazpi. Magellan had been received and tolerated during his initial visit. However, the subsequent visit by Legazpi found the natives to be hostile and after a conflict, the village at this spot was razed. The statue was then found by a soldier preserved in a burnt wooden box.
Simala, Sibonga
The Simala shrine, or the Monastery of the Holy Eucharist, is outside the city of Cebu and sits atop a hill in Simala, Sibonga. This sprawling complex is still under construction and has received sizeable donations from Filipinos, both local and abroad. At the time of our visit, there were several sections at below the main cathedral, including some ponds, which were out of bonds for the visitors. Construction was not ongoing on that very day, but there were building materials, including a hydraulic excavator. From the high walkways, one could densely packed greenery and the blue seas beyond that. I sure hope that any future expansion of this monastery does not come to follow unfettered deforestation.
We made our way inside the cool confines of the large chapel and were impressed by the tranquility of the place. We sat down to take in the adornments on the ceilings and the walls. The account goes that there was an epidemic that claimed the lives of several local children. Thereafter, the residents started to pray to Mother Mary, and that apparently halted the epidemic. There were newspaper cuttings that proclaimed accounts by several individuals, how they witnessed the statue of Mother Mary shedding tears on several instances. Also on display were the hundreds (or more) notes on display, thanking Mother Mary for answered prayers – examinations passed, employment received, illnesses cured and so on. Whether Mother Mary wept or not, it was impossible to not be affected by the strong feeling of faith, especially after having watched the throngs of people in lighting candles during their prayers or at the pews, in serious contemplation.
We made our way inside the cool confines of the large chapel and were impressed by the tranquility of the place. We sat down to take in the adornments on the ceilings and the walls. The account goes that there was an epidemic that claimed the lives of several local children. Thereafter, the residents started to pray to Mother Mary, and that apparently halted the epidemic. There were newspaper cuttings that proclaimed accounts by several individuals, how they witnessed the statue of Mother Mary shedding tears on several instances. Also on display were the hundreds (or more) notes on display, thanking Mother Mary for answered prayers – examinations passed, employment received, illnesses cured and so on. Whether Mother Mary wept or not, it was impossible to not be affected by the strong feeling of faith, especially after having watched the throngs of people in lighting candles during their prayers or at the pews, in serious contemplation.
Taoist Temple
The temple is a gem of a spot in Cebu City. It is situated away from the hustle of this second/third largest city of the Philippines. Getting to this place, as per Google Maps, is somewhat tricky as it shows the nearest jeepney dropping passengers off quite some way off, followed by a good deal of walking. In reality, there are groups of motorcycle drivers who will take two to four passengers at the time (for 10 pesos) to one of the three separate winding routes leading to a gated entrance of the colony, within which the temple is located. From this entrance, the temple is another five minutes or so on foot. Built in 1972 by Cebu's substantial Chinese community, the Cebu Taoist Temple is located at an elevation of 300 metres above sea level. Upon reaching the temple, we found it to be a towering, multicoloured oasis of serenity. The temple is multitiered, meaning there is a certain amount of steps climbing involved. On reaching each of the separate pagodas, one of the rituals includes asking a question to the deities and dropping two blocks of wood. If the blocks of wood both end up facing up then one’s wish will come true. Visitors are treated to spectacular views of the city, along with residences dotting the landscape. The temple itself is brightly coloured and is rather well maintained. On the sides and at the rear, it is flanked by a number of the villa style houses and one cannot help but envy the owners of these lavish residences.
Having boarded the ferry at six in the evening (which was supposed to depart at seven), we had the opportunity to find our bunks and leave our bags there, before heading out to the decks. There we were treated to a fiery and fantastic sunset display in the sky. As the sun rapidly went down, the lights started twinkling on from other piers, nearby buildings and those in the distance. This entire duration provided a wealth of photo opportunities, and in this duration, we watched the personnel casting the ferry off and then we were on our way. We continued to enjoy the strong breeze for a good hour, after which we went to the onboard pantry for our dinner and later went to our bunks. The next morning we woke up to the sight of land and called upon the ferry terminal of Tinambacan.
Colon Street
After our designated days of fun and relaxation in Tinambacan were over, we found ourselves taking a motor tricycle back to the ferry terminal to take the ferry back to Cebu. We had enough time to check into a hotel on the Colon Street of Cebu for the night. Colon Street is a historical street in downtown Cebu. One of the oldest streets of Cebu, it used to house the upscale developments of Cebu. Today it is crowded and somewhat run-down, but it still has a large of malls, office blocks and movie theaters. In recent years, newer commercial establishments have preferred to spread over other business districts.